Matt's surf report

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

East Coast Odyssey

Its been a long old trip up from Chiapas in southern Mexico. We had hopes of surf on the Gulf Coast and some small waves were found. The bulk of swell for this area comes in the Hurricane season however and we were out of the Gulf area before then.

The best bit about being on the Gulf coast in Mexico was the coincidence of timing with the Nation's biggest National religious holiday, Semana Santa. Nearly every beach we found ourselves on was in full blown party mode with music, beer and shrimps top priority for all concerned.

One sobering aspect of this universal descent on the water was the complete lack of any lifeguarding system. Couple the mass influx of celebrating humanity with a general lack of water knowledge and skill amongst the inland population and the potential for disaster becomes obvious. On one beach, Monte Pio, two children were drowned in the days before we were there after losing their footing and being swept away by rip currents. We then found ourselves caught up in a similar situation at La Gloria, near Veracruz. Fortunately on this occasion we were able to assist in recovering and rescusitating the young lad, who survived- but the message was clear to us- more money needed both in education and in emegency systems.


Our route took us up the Texas coast and along as far as Mississippi where we decided to duck across through the Mountains of Tennessee and The Carolinas to hit the East Coast at The Outer Banks. Once again the best swell season here is the hurricane season, but at least there was some power in the waves here.

Spot list

Monte Pio (Veracruz state)

This is actually a beautiful area with free camping and a nice estuary. The waves were rideable but lacked power here, but a decent stormswell would make this a good spot to hit.

La Gloria, Veracruz.

Similar set-up to Monte pio and again a lovely spot with potential. We surfed it until the drama ensued (see above).

Costa Esmeralda

We surfed one of the beaches on the way up here. Lots of campsites and seafood restaurants for re-fuelling. Beach breaks all the way up.

Playa Bhagdad (On the border at Brownsville)

The last surf in Mexico- but worth noting as a free beach campsite near the border alas see above for wave and swell conditions.




TEXAS

State parks all the way up the Texas coast provide access to the breaks. Tas and I scored a few waves at North Padre island, and some more at a wierd oil refinery development near Houston, a State park that has been sold off to the Oil guys.



OUTER BANKS


We surfed Okracoke, Cape Hatteras and Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, but the best was at Oregon Inlet where a shifting sandbank had put a little peak right by our campsite. Fast little barrels... we longed for more swell!!

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